Magical Yémen

Situated at the point of the Arabian peninsula, Yemen is a country unique in its diversity as much geographically ( ountains, desert, coasts) as culturally, with its influences from Africa, India and the British Empire. The Arabia Felix, its ancient name, was at the heart of the ancient incense trade route.

This country of the 'three wise men' feels lost in time, an atmosphere of magic and mystery reigns. Famous builders, known for their tall rectangular houses built of stone or mud bricks, the Yemenis have preserved their culture of a generous welcome, something that makes this a very special place to visit, even though there are very few tourists.

Yemen is the poorest country on the peninsula and is politically very unstable. Up to 1962, when the Iman was dispossessed of his rights as an absolute monarch, Yemen was one of the most secluded countries on the planet. Yemen, though democratic, has had the same omnipresent president for the last 32 years, Ali Abdullah Saleh. In March 2011, Yemen military killed 46 people who were demonstrating against the government.

Our voyage starts in the capital Sanaa, city of a 'thousand and one nights', registered as a Unesco World Heritage site, with its colourful souks rich in smells of spices (photos 1 to 4). Then we visit the high mountains of Djebel Haraz with its perched stone villages (photos 5 to 12). Jumping to the middle of the Indian Ocean we land in the amazing island Socotra with its endemic strange trees , virgin white sand beaches and turquoise waters (photos 13 to 18).

Back to the continent, we're off to the desert and the canyons of Hadramout, from the pastel coloured houses of Ouadi Doan to the magnificent city of Shibam, 'the Manhattan of the desert' (photos 19 to 23). Next we follow in the footsteps of Pasolini by walking the tight alleys of Zabid, a town of white limewashed houses where every month the largest animal market of the country takes place (photos 24 to 29).

Finally we visit the fishermen of the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden, a hotbed of pirates and somalian refugees (photos 30 to 33). Back in Sanaa we visit the culture of Qat, a veritable national sport (photos 34 to 35). Finally we try to meet the women of Yemen, dressed in the traditional costume of the black niqab, in this ultra orthodox culture they are practically inaccessible (photos 36 to 38).

Photographs by Zia Zeff, of Paris, France. www.zia-zeff.com

On exhibit at the GoNOMAD Cafe, South Deerfield through June 2011